FAQs

MICROGREENS

You need good, quality seeds, some containers/trays, soil and lots of love. All you can get in our online store.

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Although quite some people think those are the same, the truth behind is quite opposite. There are few differences between microgreens and sprouts, from the growing process to what you eat.

Pro Tip: Depending on what equipment you have at home, you will grow weather sprouts (in a sprouter or glass jar) or microgreens (in some tray, container, pot,…). Make sure you provide enough air flow, for the sprouts (with washing them 3 times per day and not overcrowding) and for the microgreens, open window or fan from time to time will be sufficient enough.

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The Brassica family is among the easiest one. Like broccoli, kale, red cabbage. Mustards are also easy.

Pro Tip: Start with those varieties and then continue with pea, sunflowers, coriander,… Those require soaking steps before sowing them. Then go with the herbs like basil, dill, fennel, celery, chervil,… And the very last one try shiso, red veined sorrel, marjoram, thyme, …. The longer growing varieties. They do require some more knowledge and skills to be grown as they should. In our Microgreens MasterClass, where we teach how to build your own microgreen business, we have devoted quite some time to our techniques of growing. And you will become a pro, for sure.

Read more in the article:

  1. Grow Your Own And Delicious Microgreens At Home
  2. What Are The Best Seeds For Growing Microgreens?

You can use whatever you have around the house, it can be a container from the fruit, mushrooms, vegetables, some pot,…

Pro Tip: We use white plastic trays that are really durable and can last for a long time. So that means you can reuse them for years, just clean them in between batches each time.

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Yes, of course. We use this trays from our beginnings in 2014 and we are super proud on them. So we think our trays are the perfect match and container to grow microgreens in them. Let’s look into why more in depth:

  • The price is really affordable, because we want to help you to grow the best microgreens ever
  • Trays can be bought in set, one tray with holes and one without and is utilized for both weighted and dome blackouts. You can use lid for dome (as a cover) and then as a watering tray (place it under the tray with holes)
  • The tray height is perfect, 3.7cm (1,38’’). From the beginnings we have tested several heights, but this one is the perfect and you will use less soil and your microgreens will still have plenty room to grow and you won’t have issues to cut your greens directly from the tray
  • Water is quickly absorbed through the holes in the planting tray. The watering tray fits the planting tray tightly so water is forced up into the soil.
  • Trays are really durable, and food-grade. They can be washed, cleaned and sterilized by hand or in a dishwasher (but we always do it by hand). With regular use, they will last for years.
  • The size is perfect for the majority of the window sill (18,7 * 13,7 * 3,7; 7,36 * 5,40* 1,46’’), which is the perfect space for growing microgreens. Since microgreens do need some light for growth.

Pro Tip: The colour is white – very unique, chic, stylish, attractive. Very suitable not just for home users but also for chefs. Our chefs love them 🙂

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Hydroponics requires the use of chemical fertilizer for maximum microgreen growth. If you are using a hydroponic method, then make sure to use organic, since you and loved ones will eat them, or even if you grow it for customers, since we care for them.

We have tested several options, including growing microgreens hydroponically, but soil was each time the winner. So we stick with the soil, and you can use your own method. Using some sort of growing mats is more suitable in our opinion for the fastest growing microgreens, like cress, broccoli, kale, red cabbage, radishes,…

Pro Tip:  In the public kitchen a lot of times, they do require growing a medium that is not soil. For that reason all sorts of growing mats, like coco, hemp, bamboo,…mats will be a perfect solution for this. Of course there will be addition of nutrients for all microgreens that grow 10+ days. So check with the state/country requirements before you start selling in all kinds of public kitchens.

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In our online store, of course 🙂

The prices are affordable, and the seed germination rate is very good. Those are all the seeds that we also use in our cultivation.

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Majority of seeds offered in our online store are organic. All the rest are NON-GMO, and untreated.

We do offer bulk orders and more varieties, just drop us a message, if you are from an EU country. Minimum order is 200€.

For all customers outside EU countries, the minimum order is 2000€. Enter email here, and you will instantly get our price list on your email.

LEADING TO THE FORM That we have discussed, for customers to enter their email and they will get it price list on the email.

First of all, not all soils are ok for growing microgreens. If you purchase it in a garden store, look only for organic one. The next thing to look up for is to have the finest structure possible, without any big pieces in between. It should be rich with humus, the option is also to be mixed with coco coir.

Pro Tip: We use Klassman Potground, here is a link to their site, where you can check if it can be bought near you: Click Here

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Because it is the best growing medium. Whenever we do tests (and we do them on a regular basis), nothing can compare growing on the soil. But we do understand that people don’t always want to grow on soil due to some mess that it can be around the soil, perhaps some kitchen restrictions and because sometimes it’s just easier to place some mat in the tray and that’s it.

Pro Tip: Use really rich soil, that will provide enough nutrients for the whole cycle of microgreens (also for the longer once, 3 weeks+).

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For fastest growing microgreens we can say for sure, you won’t get it. But for longer growing microgreens soil can be a very good medium, especially if your soil is too moist all the time. Another insect problem are aphids. We are not sure how they get in, whether it’s from open windows, or they’re brought in from outside on shoes or clothes, but they can infest especially herb microgreens at times. The best way to get rid of aphids is to wash them off the microgreens after you harvest them.

Pro Tip: use some sticky tapes, or put some vinegar in the bottle, they love it.

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Microgreen seeds germinate best on soil kept consistently moist throughout the first few days after planting at room temperature. You need to put some germination lid on the sown tray, to help maintain soil moisture and increase humidity to give your seeds the best chance to grow. If you haven’t seen adequate germination within up to 7 days of planting (depending on the variety that you are sowing), check your soil moisture and mist more frequently your seeds.

Pro Tip: many times, the seeds that you are using, can be old, with a bad germination rate and not viable any more. Try to get a new batch of seeds (with different LOT numbers) and try it again.

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The vast majority of the time what you are seeing are the microgreen roots! Some microgreens have bright white roots that have fine silky fibers (called root ‘hairs’). Since you are sowing seeds on the top of the soil, roots and root hairs are more visible. Don’t worry – this is a sign that roots are growing strong and will support healthy microgreen growth! If you’re concerned, send us a pic of your tray and we’ll be happy to take a look!

Pro Tip: Radish and mustard seeds have really strong root hairs, so don’t be afraid and keep on growing.

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Microgreens are very young plants; they only need a moderate amount of light to give them rich color and an abundance of nutrients! We recommend finding a space for your tray that receives day-long indirect light or a few hours of direct light. Kitchen countertop, windowsill or balcony will work fine. Note that watering levels will vary based on temperature and amount of sunlight, so monitor your microgreens carefully and adjust lighting and/or water accordingly.

Pro Tip: For very even growth you can use some artificial light, if you are growing your greens indoors. Some LED light will work fine.

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No, for sure. We have been in this business from 2014 and we also thought that growing lights will make significant change in our microgreens. We don’t say that there isn’t any difference between classic LED and grow Light, but for microgreens, that can be grown in a week or so and in majority up to 14, 21 days, the basic LED lights will be enough, plus you will save a lot of money. Trust me.

Pro Tip: Look into our in- depth blog post on what lights you should use for your microgreens. For home growers, you don’t need any extra light, but if you want it, of course, you can buy some home sets. Check our Resources & Tools page for references.

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All bigger seeds (like pea, chickpea, bean, lentil,) and the ones that have a hull around the seed (beet, spelt grass, sunflower, fennel, dill, coriander, etc)

Pro Tip: Majority of the seeds need soaking overnight, but we found out that the beet requires less soaking time, like 4 hours, the same goes with chickpea. An exception to these rules are nasturtiums, who don’t require soaking.

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Microgreens will grow best at room temperatures (around 20-24°C/ 68-75 F) and with either day-long indirect light or a few hours of direct light. Find a spot in your home that will provide these conditions. As mentioned above, the windowsill or kitchen countertop will work very well.

Pro Tip: place your tray in a location where you’ll see it every day! This will remind you to daily add water and you’ll be able to see just how quickly your microgreens will be ready to harvest!

Once again, this depends on the variety that you are growing. In our details Microgreen Masterclass, we have included all the varieties, that we are growing (50+), and those are calculated for our small containers (18,7*13,7*3,7 cm) and for 1020 trays.

Pro Tip: the right density is really important, since you don’t want to have very poor yield and microgreens will not grow as they should. Or even over sown them, since then, they will not have enough place to grow. Testing is a good way to get to the perfect grammatures.

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In general, microgreens will grow well in damp but not over-saturated soil. Seeds prefer a more moist environment during germination – that means, you need to mist your seeds very well during germination, so that they will not dry out. We recommend doing it once per day, but please don’t place a tray in the indirect sun, if so, you will need to repeat the process 2-3 times per day. After uncovering trays and putting them somewhere where the light is, you need to daily bottom water your microgreens. The same as with the misting part, if you will have a few hours of direct sunlight on microgreens, you will probably need to water your microgreens at least 2 times per day. Look at the soil and if it looks like and feels like it has drained out, then water it more generously.

Pro Tip: If you are using any other growing medium then soil, like coco coir or some mats, adjust watering as needed. Those growing mediums need less watering then soil.

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We start the watering part, when we uncover the dome and put microgreens under the light.

Pro Tip: Stronger & bigger microgreens, like pea, corn, sunflower, nasturtiums, can we water also from top from the start, when the plants are still smaller.

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Well, this really depends on the variety that you are growing, but in majority, when they reach 2-3cm (0,79’- 1,18’), or to the top of the dome.

Pro Tip: You have to mist your seeds each day, and you will see the progress of the seeds. They germinate quite fast, so with that in mind you don’t want to miss the uncovering time. Sometimes in the morning you will not need to uncover them yet, but in the evening they will be almost too big. So make sure you look at the growth a few times per day, from the start, until you are not familiar with the growing cycle.

As long as you are using rich soil for growing medium, you don’t need to. Even for those longer growing varieties (10+days). If you are using coco coir or some other growing mats, you should add some additional nutrients…

Pro Tip: an organic liquid fertilizer can improve the color of the microgreens and add a flush of growth.

Well, everything depends on the variety of seeds that you have sown. But the fastest microgreens should be ready to harvest between day 6 and day 10 after planting. Greens will have grown several inches above the soil, though seedling height will vary based on lighting and soil conditions during growth.

Microgreens can be harvested and eaten at any point once they’ve grown above the soil. After they have grown, eat them for up to 7 days, since they can begin to lose their fresh flavor beyond this time.

Pro Tip: If you will grow herb varieties, they need more time to sprout (usually 7-14days) and longer time to be ready to harvest, up to 1 month.

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It’s really a decision prior to your preferences to taste and appearance. The fastest microgreens, ‘the brassica family’, like broccoli, kale, red cabbage…radishes, mustard, cress can be harvested in a week, then some need from 8 up to 14 days to be ready to harvest, like sunflower, pea,… and then we have herbs, that need from 14 up to 1 month. Herbs develop not just cotyledon leaves but also first true leaves. Like basil, cilantro, dill, fennel,….

Pro Tip: Once microgreens are ready to be harvested, you can place them in the refrigerator (living or cut in the plastic clamshell), and they will last longer, plus they will no longer grow. This just isn’t appropriate for the majority of herbs.

Ready for harvest – garden cress.

If we are talking about soil full of roots from previous growth, then no. Since this can cause damping – off disease. And the new roots will not even have space to grow into. Some microgreens, like peas, wheatgrass, have really strong and big roots and they basically ‘eat’ all the growing medium’.

Pro Tip: You can put it on the compost and after a few months use this very rich soil for your outer garden. Your plants and veggies will love it.

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In general no, but some varieties do. From a business perspective, this is a major advantage, so that people are continuing placing orders at your store. From people’s point of view, it would be better to see them regrow 🙂

Pro Tip: Some of the varieties like pea, lettuce, wheatgrass and some herbs will regrow after harvesting. Just the yield will be lower and it will take some time to regrow.

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Wilt is probably caused by either under-watering or excessive heat. Check this first.

Pro Tip: And even if your greens are all down, and you are growing on the soil, if you pour excess water in the tray, they should stand up again (if you were fast enough).

This can be caused by several things. The most likely is watering with water that is too alkaline. Rot in a crop can also be caused by sowing seeds too thickly or over-watering. Microgreens should not be grown in a soil that has staying water. Or perhaps you don’t have enough air-flow around your crops.

You need to check your water pH and adjust it. Opening a window or placing some fans around your microgreens will also help. Try to water less your greens and adjust your seed gramature as needed.

Pro Tip: Air conditioner may help you with the heat and dehumidifier is a must if you are growing more than a few trays.

SPROUTS

Almost. You can sprout almost any legume, seed, or nut. Everything from chickpeas to alfalfa to kale to onions to clover to mung beans. Seeds that are mucilaginous are not suitable for sprouting in a jar or sprouts. It’s best to grow them like microgreens. That is because they form some gel around the seeds, and they stick together. That’s why you cannot rinse them at all.

Pro Tip: Those seeds are basil, chia, rocket, cress.

Read more in the Article: https://reactgreens.com/what-is-the-best-time-to-eat-sprouts/

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Honestly, no. All you need is a jar, some small piece of natural, breathing fabric (cheesecloth or cotton will work fine) and rubber. For those who don’t want to mess with things, the plastic sprouting lids will be a good solution and for advanced level, you can use some sprouter.

Pro Tip: Use a sprouter that is suitable for you and your space in the kitchen. We love our Bivita sprouter. It’s so good, sprouts are feeling very well in it and beside all it’s very unique and chic.

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Of course, in our online store 🙂 Germination rate is really important and the fact that the seeds are pure, if organic, even better

Read more in the article: https://reactgreens.com/why-are-sprouts-so-healthy/

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Well yes, we are offering seeds that are suitable for both growing methods. Those seeds are very clean and have passed several tests for all kinds of diseases.

READ MORE HERE: https://reactgreens.com/can-you-use-bird-seed-for-microgreens/

There have been so many outbreaks of salmonella and e.coli associated with sprouts from the grocery store. The warm humid environment that sprouts grow in is also the prime climate for bacteria to spread. In large-scale commercial operations, it’s almost impossible to keep the environment clear from all types of pathogens.

To overcome this, we do recommend you to start sprouting your own seeds. Why? Because it is super easy and much more affordable than buying already prepared sprouts.

Read more in the article: https://reactgreens.com/how-do-you-know-when-sprouts-are-ready-to-eat/

This is not quite right, no. Brassicas do smell more than most sprouts – it is a sulfur smell which you might notice sounds similar to sulforaphane, the anti-oxidant in Broccoli and other Brassicas, so a little smell is a good thing. Brassicas like other small seeds are more vulnerable to drowning if not well drained and that is all that we need to deal with here.

Very important steps when dealing with sprouts are:

  1. Rinsing very well – 2-3 times per day
  2. Draining very well (no water needs to stay in the sprouter)
  3. Spreading seeds very evenly across the sprouter, without and bigger balls of sprouts

99.9% of you aren’t seeing mold (if you’re using our seeds), you are seeing Root Hairs. If you are growing Broccoli, Radish or another Brassica, or a Grain, and you see this “fuzz” just before you Rinse – that is Root Hairs. Just Rinse and they fall back against the main root. You won’t see them again until your next Rinse.

It is possible to grow mold or fungus on your sprouts, but if you are using good germinating seeds and have a sterile Sprouter, it is easily correctable. If your seed is old, buy fresh ones (read about Seed Storage HERE ) and store it well.

You should sterilize your Sprouter every few crops (at least) – if you haven’t done that, do it – it makes a HUGE difference to have a clean Sprouter. Mold is usually associated with high humidity or lack of air-circulation. The most common causes of are:

  1. A Sprouter with poor air-circulation – you might have used too many seeds and now they are overcrowding
  2. Insufficient Draining after Rinses – some water is still in the sprouter/glass, which promotes mold growth
  3. High humidity in your home – use dehumidifier or open your windows more regularly
  4. A not clean enough Sprouter – each time after your sprouts are ready, clean sprouter very well, and from time to time you need to sterilize it
  5. Growing your Sprouts in a cabinet – where there is a lack of air-flow. Put the sprouter somewhere else in more open space.
  6. Rinsing with warm or hot water – use cold water and you will be fine.